Alec Mull, director of operations at Founder’s Brewing Co., in Grand Rapids, and John Mallett, production manager at Bell’s Brewery, Inc., discuss what makes Michigan a special place in the craft brewing world.
Although Pacific Coast states like California, Oregon and Washington also have a booming craft beer industry, the two attribute the beer’s special qualities to Michigan’s population.
The Pacific Coast states of California, Oregon and Washington have long held a reputation for top-notch craft beers.
While many states have settled to enjoying those microbrews, Michigan is catching up — and perhaps surpassing — the West in the art of brewing.
The growing beer industry in Michigan generates tens of millions of dollars for the state every year and was recognized by the Michigan Legislature, which in June passed resolutions designating July as Michigan Craft Beer Month.
State Sen. Mike Nofs, R-Battle Creek, and state Rep. Rebekah Warren, D-Ann Arbor, introduced joint resolutions in support of the booming industry.
July was selected as it culminates with the Michigan Brewers Guild’s Summer Beer Festival on July 23 and 24 in Ypsilanti, Mich.
“It’s nice to be able to highlight a Michigan industry that has been doing quite well the past few years despite our economic difficulties,” Nofs said. “It has seen double-digit growth over the past two years despite the overall economic downturn. Our brewers employ thousands of residents and support the state’s agriculture, restaurant and tourism industries.”
Although Michigan started late in comparison to East and West Coast states, Scott Graham, executive director of the Michigan Brewers Guild, said Michigan is “The Great Beer State.”
“The craft beer culture in Michigan is thriving,” Graham said. “States like Washington, Oregon, California and Colorado rank up there, but it’s kind of a secret that Michigan is so great.”
An unknown culture
Each state has a different mix of residents, which is what makes the West Coast and Michigan special for brewing, Graham said.
“Over the years, the consumers have been growing more aware of our brewers,” he said. “We have a collection of pretty savvy beer consumers and that pushes our brewers.”
Even during poor economic periods, there still are areas of growth — including Michigan’s beer industry, MSU economics professor Charles Ballard said.
Ballard said a trend in the food industry might account for some of the success.
“America used to be a place where the beer market was bland,” Ballard said. “But there is a long-term trend toward specialty foods. There’s so much variation in the (economic demographics) and there’s a large variety of higher end beers the wealthier population will consume.”
According to the Michigan Brewers Guild, Michigan’s brewing industry contributes $24 million to employee wages and a total economic contribution of $133 million.
The state also ranks No. 6 in the nation in terms of breweries, microbreweries and brewpubs.
The close vicinity of many Michigan breweries leads to information sharing and friendly competition, Graham said.
“I think there’s more of an internal focus when a brewery sees another’s new creation — it really gets the creative juices flowing,” he said. “It all helps ratchet the quality up.”
Michigan’s bountiful natural resources also make it an increasingly desirable place for brewers, said Karen McKay, director of retail operations at the Michigan Brewing Company in Webberville, Mich.
“Michigan has so many resources available to people living in the state, such as our pure water and the farmland, which produces all the grains that are necessary to make craft beer,” McKay said. “People enjoy knowing that they are purchasing a product that has been made from Michigan-grown ingredients.”
The mitten influence
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College kids know their beer, and that’s how MSU alumni Neal Leathers and Brad Robinson said they began their passionate relationship with brewing.
The pair founded Big Sky Brewing Co. in Montana, but without MSU and Michigan, Leathers and Robinson said they might not be successful brewmasters.
“I really got into it at MSU,” Leathers said.
“I lived on a floor with a bunch of beer drinkers, and every Friday we’d pick up a different case and see what we liked.”
Leathers and Robinson started brewing in a small Okemos apartment in 1988, and eventually started Big Sky Brewing Co. to create full-flavored beer.
Flavor is what sets craft beers apart from mass-produced beers, Graham said.
“(Craft beers) are made to more traditional methods and use a lot more grains than hops, for a more distinct flavor,” he said.
“Mass-produced beers are of high quality, they’re just not interesting. Craft beers definitely use raw materials more intensively.”
The company might not be based in Michigan, but the founders always have wanted to bring their creations back to the state, Leathers said.
“Since day one, the goal was expanding and getting back to Michigan,” he said.
The immediate reception for the company’s beers in Michigan at bars such as Crunchy’s, 254 W. Grand River Ave., is well above what the brewery expected, he said.
Successful breweries are a large reason the beer culture in Michigan has made large strides throughout the past several years, Leathers said.
“Breweries like Founders (Brewing Co., in Grand Rapids) and Bell’s (Brewery, Inc., in Kalamazoo) are seeing things skyrocket,” he said.
“That’s getting through to people that craft beers are growing fast.”
Michigan flavor in E.L.
Crunchy’s, which hosts Michigan Month during July, is one of the venues highlighted by the Michigan Brewers Guild during Michigan Craft Beer Month.
The restaurant has switched all of its 27 taps to Michigan brews and will tap a special firkin — a traditional and more natural way to serve beer — every Friday and have an auxiliary menu made with Michigan food items, general manager Mike Krueger said.
“(The month) helps to recognize the industry in Michigan is one of the best,” Krueger said.
“The shift (away from mass-produced beers) has begun and will continue to gain steam. It excites people that the possibilities are endless in flavor possibilities.”
