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Touring wine country

Discover Michigan's finest wineries; join the trend, learn the proper way to taste

April 27, 2006
The Chateau Grand Traverse vineyard.

Wine has been around since the beginning of civilization, and it doesn't seem as if it's going to disappear any time soon. In fact, wine has been increasing in popularity — especially with younger crowds.

Generally, it's believed that the best wines come from places such as Bordeaux, Tuscany and Napa Valley — far away from Michigan. But you don't really have to travel out of state to experience the finest wines. Just north of Traverse City, 22 wineries operate right on the 45th parallel — the same region where France's finest wine grapes grow. Though it might look like a foreign kingdom with its rolling hills covered in grape vines and fruit trees, scattered with elegant mansion neighborhoods giving way to brilliant Lake Michigan, you don't have to buy a plane ticket to see it.

Old Mission Peninsula and Leelanau Peninsula, both right above Traverse City, are home to about half of Michigan's wineries. The drive up there is about 180 miles from East Lansing — making it an easy daylong or weekend trip for area residents.

Once you're there, wine tasting is complimentary and there are a variety of restaurants, bed and breakfasts and scenic views to complement your stay. Most of the wine that can be purchased at the wineries is affordable — even for a poor college student. Bottles are typically between $6 and $20, with the exception of more expensive specialty products such as port and ice wine.

Many of Michigan's winemaking regions have been deemed appellations, meaning they are geographic regions with common climate, soil characteristics, grape varieties and winemaking traditions to the most famous French wineries. But Michigan wine is still unique.

Tasting the classics

Chateau Chantal, 15900 Rue de Vin in Traverse City, makes single variety wines, proprietary blends, fruit wines, port and ice wine. Bill Autenreith, the tasting room manager at Chateau Chantal, said Michigan wine has a lot to offer. As the second most agriculturally diverse state, Michigan has the resources to create not only grape wines, but wines from numerous other fruits, he said.

Wine tasters have a wide selection to choose from in Michigan, and no experience is necessary. Coryn Briggs, tasting room manager at Peninsula Cellars, 11480 Center Road in Traverse City, said people don't have to know about wine before they go tasting.

"We get a lot of people that are novice wine tasters and we always answer questions and guide them the best we can," she said. "If you have prior wine knowledge I think it enhances the experience, but if you don't have knowledge it's kind of fun because you're starting on a clean slate — either way you can still enjoy yourself."

Briggs said wine should be tasted in a specific order beginning with a dry white wine, through the rest of the whites to a dry red, through the reds, ending with the sweeter fruit and dessert wines.

"If you have a sweet wine first and then go right to a dry white wine it will make the dry wine taste flat," she said.

Most wineries provide guides on tasting order of the wines.

In a class of its own

Winery staff members are specially trained to provide information and answer questions patrons have, but MSU students can learn about wine in the classroom, too. The Department of Horticulture offers a wine judging class and The School of Hospitality Business offers a survey course on wine tasting and another class on beverages, which includes wine.

Associate Professor Carl Borchgrevink said he's noticed students getting more interested in wine recently.

"The whole country is getting more interested in pinot noir after 'Sideways,' and the student body has shown an increase in interest as well," he said.

Borchgrevink said students' tastes are maturing when it comes to wine.

"They are excited about and more curious about a wider range of wines than they used to be," he said.

Another place area residents eager to explore the world of wine can test their palate is Dusty's Wine Bar in Dusty's Cellar, 1839 Grand River Ave. in Okemos. Up to six wines are available for tasting any day of the week and once a month, Dusty's puts on weekend wine events. Patrons can taste up to 24 different wines or a five-course meal accompanied by five different wines paired specifically with certain foods. Experts take part in the events to discuss the wines being served. Event schedules and prices are posted on its Web site: www.dustyscellar.com.

Executive Chef Kevin Cronin said they have been trying to encourage younger people to participate in wine tasting events, and have noticed greater student attendance.

"We're seeing an increase in the younger crowd which is cool, we really like that," he said. "It's not the bar scene, it's a little bit more upscale kind of thing for people trying to learn a little bit more about the best things in life."

Cronin said it's important for people to realize they don't have to be wine experts to enjoy wine.

"It's not a snobby atmosphere and there is no pretentiousness about wine here. We just want people to try wine," he said. "Our waiters don't look at you funny if you don't know how to pronounce a wine name."

On the verge of a trend

Local establishments are not the only places that have seen more of an interest from 20-somethings. Autenreith said Chateau Chantal has experienced an increase in younger clientele.

"It's safe to say with age there's no average age anymore. Research shows older people are still paying our bills, but come on, everyone is getting into it now," he said.

Autenreith said the versatility of wine is the reason new people will continue to become interested in it and explore new varieties.

"The trends are moving away from the single variety wines and people are more interested in proprietary blends," he said. "The trend right now is to get something unique."

Proprietary blends are mixes of traditional varieties, like a merlot and a cabernet combined to make one wine. Autenreith said blends have flavors that are in the middle and cater to palates on the fence.

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