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Cozy atmosphere

Restaurant has vast selection of wine, elegant, unique entrees

February 21, 2006
Dusty's Cellar, 1839 W. Grand River Ave. in Okemos, offers a variety of services. Although originally a cookware shop, today Dusty's is a store and bakery that connects to a restaurant dining room. Dusty's has also recently expanded to add a bar next door to the restaurant.

Dusty's Cellar, 1839 Grand River Ave. in Okemos, has a lot to offer. It's a bakery, a bar, a wine cellar and a gift shop. You can even buy a lamp there. But most importantly, Dusty's Cellar is a restaurant.

I had the pleasure of dining at Dusty's Cellar on Valentine's Day, and it is indeed the perfect place for special occasions. It's a delightful experience once you figure out where you are supposed to go.

The restaurant manages to be really fancy and rustic at the same time. The tables are wood and have carved designs of famous wineries on them. The lighting is dim, but diners can make out the elegant back wall decorated with Roman-style pillars and green ivy. The rest of the place is full of rich colors. The room is — all dark red and wood — is a truly elegant atmosphere.

Dusty's wine theme extends beyond its tables — even the water is served in a wine glass. I had the house cabernet, one of the cheapest bottles on the menu, and it did not disappoint. It was rich and full of flavor without being bitter. The place carries mostly expensive wines, but even their cheapest bottle tastes like an expensive one.

The menu is classy and offers a lot of dishes you won't find in most area restaurants. Diners can order organic Michigan chicken, lamb, veal, lobster and eggplant pasta among other things. Dusty's also serves many dishes flavored with saffron, an upscale and expensive spice.

I started with bread dipped in olive oil, which is complimentary with every meal, and a key lime Caesar salad. It looks just like your regular Caesar salad, but it is far from ordinary. The dressing is flavored with key lime juice and regular Caesar is flavored with lemon. It's sweeter than regular Caesar, and really fresh-tasting. The salad arrived quickly and it had the perfect amount of dressing on it. The amount of dressing is key because if there isn't enough you can't taste it, but if your salad is completely saturated you can't eat it.

I tried Dusty's Stuffed Chicken Breast, which was boneless chicken stuffed with steamed spinach, sun dried tomatoes and garlic and herb gournay cheese. It was served over a "farmers rice medley" which was basically wild rice. This was might just be the best thing I have ever tasted. The chicken was tender and juicy, and it was hard to recognize as chicken breast — something I make for myself all the time. The stuffing was the perfect combination; it had a comfortable fluffy texture and gave the chicken a new flavor. The rice didn't taste any different than Uncle Ben's, but I was delighted by the asparagus that was served with my meal.

I also tried the Three Cheese Penne Rigate, which was penne noodles tossed in manchego, asiago and gruyere cheese sauce accented with Caribbean jerk spice gratin. I was a little nervous at first because I thought it was a mix of too many different types of flavors. I had nothing to worry about, the pasta was delicious.

You can get Penne Rigate with grilled chicken or sautéed large white shrimp. I had the grilled chicken. All the flavors blended together perfectly so that not one overpowered another. The Penne Rigate was really rich, and the penne noodles were served on top of a bed of the sauce, with only a little drizzled on top. That was perfect because you could customize the amount of sauce on each bite.

The service was very skilled and professional — exactly what a diner would want at a classy place like Dusty's. The wait staff will hang your jacket up as soon as you walk in. I arrived a half hour before my reservation, and they seated me right away. The waitress was knowledgeable about the menu and helpful. I never had to ask for water because my glass was always being refilled. The staff was available but not overbearing.

The food arrived quickly, or maybe I was just enjoying my bread and salad too much to notice waiting. It was garnished with a tiny fuchsia flower and served in huge portions.

Go to Dusty's for the romantic atmosphere and the original dishes. Pick something from the menu that you've never had before, or a dish with flavor combinations you've never experienced. It's a little pricey, but only a few dollars more than Applebee's or Olive Garden, and the food is well worth its price. Diners are sure to experience fine dining at its best, and leave with leftovers.

For more information, visit www.dustyscellar.com.

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