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Irish celebrate holiday with patriotism

Dublin, Ireland -Patriotism was all around me Monday as people sported the three colors of the country they love most - orange, white and green.

I must admit I was ecstatic to learn that the dates of my Ireland study abroad program coincided with the celebration of the famous Irish holiday, St. Patrick's Day. I mean, if it's this big a deal in Chicago and New York, how huge will it be in Dublin?

But unfortunately, the River Liffey remained clear, not green. I didn't see one pint of green beer or even a leprechaun, though I did meet a man wearing a charming costume. Instead, I simply saw people celebrating this holiday much as Americans celebrate Independence Day, sporting their country's colors and being proud to be Irish.

For me and my fellow study abroad members, the St. Patrick celebration began Friday night at a hoppin' downtown pub where popular music blared, and we danced the night away. Unfortunately, some may have danced, or possibly drank, too hard and several can't recall the events of the night. But all's fair in love and beer, right?

On Saturday night, thousands came from around Ireland and farther to view a brilliant fireworks display along the River Liffey. Unfortunately, my view was blocked by a very irritating and very giant building, but I have it on good authority from the lucky devils close to the fireworks that they were amazing.

After the fireworks (surprise, surprise), the group took a trip to the bar. I'm going to leave out the description here, only to say that I'm sure there were some wild times, though I had chosen to return to a quiet night at the flats like the square that I am. And, continuing my nerdiness, I also skipped out on Sunday's festivities to study (we are studying abroad, after all).

Finally, the day arrived in a sea of green and orange hats, clothes, flags, hair and faces. After taking a painfully crowded train ride into town, I emerged into the heart of the parade. I was amazed by the colorful floats, fabulous music and gorgeous costumes. Maybe it's because I'm from a small town with an equally small parade, but I was impressed by the performers and the spectators.

Babies in carriages grinned from under gigantic party hats. Kids covered in face paint waved flags at the passing parade while sitting on parents' shoulders. Teenagers with orange-and-green hair smoked cigarettes and laughed with friends. Old men and children hung out of windows and sat on rooftops to get the best view. Artists waved their palettes in the air, offering to paint a shamrock or a flag for a Euro or two.

By this time, many of my group members had already started drinking, some beginning well before noon and making a beeline for the pub as soon as the parade ended. I followed a crowd to St. Stephen's Green, a large, lush park in the heart of Dublin. People sprawled out on the grass as a friend and I sat down, unwrapped our sandwiches (filled with corn, an Irish specialty) and ate, observing the people around us. Families unpacked picnic baskets near groups of cheering college students guzzling beers. And, oh my! Is that man peeing in the stream right in public? Yes he was, and I grabbed my camera and snapped a picture.

But strangely enough, one of my Irish stereotypes was destroyed on this day. Though many people packed into pubs while others stumbled through the street, there wasn't as much drunken debauchery as I had expected. In fact, my fellow American students seemed to lead the throng of hard-core drinkers, much to the amusement of many a sober Irishman.

As for me, well, I had homework to do, but if I had found a pub that actually managed to turn the murky black Guinness beer green, I might have tried some.

After all, I was in Ireland on St. Patty's day.

State News staff writer Elissa Englund can be reached at englunde@msu.edu.

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